But paella is just the pan and refers to rice dishes cooked in it; a bit like risotto but cooked in a different way (most of the stock is added in one go rather than that slightly pedantic thing the Italians do with the ladle)

This is warm and spicy and based on game ("caza" is the Spanish word for hunting or for game) and this is a beautiful, beautiful thing

Use any game or wild meat you can get (I'd avoid boar or any mamal personally - do it with rabbit and fowl)

Directions

Joint the meat and place it in a deep pan, cover with with a couple of pints of water

Add in a bay leaf, a few whole peppercorns, cinnamon and cloves

Fry a chopped onion, 4 chopped garlic cloves, the halved tomatoes in a glug of olive oil for a few minutes, then add to the saucepan with the meat

Bring everything to a gentle simmer and leave it bubbling with a lid on for an hour

After the hour remove the joints of meat and strain the stock into a jug. When the meat is cool remove it from the bones and chop it up to mouth-sized bits

In the paella, heat another glug of oil and fry the other chopped onion, the rest of the garlic, the rest of the tomatoes and the chopped chilli for a few minutes

Add the rice, paprika and salt and pepper and fry for another minute or so. Then add about half of the stock, give it a stir and then leave it alone but watch it to stop it sticking

When the rice is about half-done (most of the stock is gone), add the meat on top and put the rest of the stock in

Don't mess about too much but again stop it from sticking if you need to. If it is drying out and isn't cooked then just use a splash of water now and again to keep it from burning

When it's done, give it a stir and . . .

That’s it

Ingredients

• A rabbit
• A pheasant, duck, partridge, pigeon, whatever you can get
• 12 cherry or baby plum tomatoes
• 2 onions
• 8-10 garlic cloves
• A red chilli
• A bay leaf
• A cinnamon stick
• 2 cloves - not garlic, the little black ones that look like nails
• 2 pints of water
• about a pound of Bomba rice (risotto rice works but why not use the real stuff?)
• 2 tsp paprika